HR: 0800h
AN: OS11A-0493    [Abstracts]
TI: Theory of Edge Capillary-Gravity Waves
AU: * Muzylev, S V
EM: smuzylev@mail.ru
AF: P.P.Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Nakhimovsky prospekt, 36, Moscow, 117997 Russian Federation
AU: * Muzylev, S V
EM: smuzylev@mail.ru
AF: Institute of Astronomy and Meteorology, Physics Department, University of Guadalajara Mexico, Av.Vallarta 2602, Mexico, Jal 44130 Mexico
AU: Bulgakov, S N
EM: sbulgako@udgserv.cencar.udg.mx
AF: Institute of Astronomy and Meteorology, Physics Department, University of Guadalajara Mexico, Av.Vallarta 2602, Mexico, Jal 44130 Mexico
AB: We consider a body of fluid in equilibrium in a gravitational field and having a free surface and a plane-sloping beach with a straight coastline. If, under the action of some external disturbances, the surface is moved its equilibrium position, motion will occur in the fluid. This motion will be propagated along the coast in the form of waves, which are driven under the action of gravity and surface tension forces. We call these waves edge capillary-gravity waves, if their amplitude decays exponentially with distance from the coast. The fluid is considered inviscid, irrotational and incompressible. Under these conditions the velocity potencial satisfies the Laplace's equation everywhere in the fluid. The boundary conditions are such that the normal velocity at the bottom is zero and on the free surface in the presence of surface tension the linearized kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions are satisfied. The main difficulty for solution of this problem is that the variables are not separated. We present explicit solutions for all modes of the edge capillary-gravity waves and the dispersion equation. Capillary forces affect markedly the edge gravity waves profiles over the high frequency range. The peaks and lows have become larger as compared to pure edge gravity waves, dependence on the radial coordinate becomes more complicated, and a number of zeros of a mode might not coincide with the number of the mode. When ignoring capillary forces, our results are in complete agreement with the classic results of Ursell (1952) for the edge gravity waves on a sloping beach.
DE: 4506 Capillary waves
DE: 4546 Nearshore processes
SC: Ocean Sciences [OS]
MN: 2004 AGU Fall Meeting